Sawadee! I'm a bit behind on the blog, but I wanted to let everyone know that I made it to Thailand safely from Nepal (which narrowly avoided a government coup the day before I left). I met up with my second group a couple of days ago and I'm currently in Chiang Mai, Thailand's second city, located in the mountains in the north. Tomorrow we head further north to the Laos border.
I haven't seen any signs of further civil unrest here; on the contrary, Thailand is immaculate and thoroughly modernized, especially when compared with some of what I saw in India and Nepal! I actually barely recognize the place I visited seven years ago back in college. Everything seems brand new here, in both good and bad ways (too many 7-11s and Starbucks and McDonalds for my taste, even if Ronald McDonald does 'wai' you on the way in).
I've included my itinerary for the next month below. I'll be traveling through Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia before heading back to Bangkok. I'm looking forward to sharing more adventures here, so stay tuned!
Leg 2: The Great Indochina Loop (Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia) in 29 days [4/27/09 – 5/25/09]
Day 1 Arrive Bangkok
Arrive in Bangkok at any time. Your Tour Leader would have put up a Welcome Note and will arrange a meeting,normally for 6pm. Time to find out all about your trip and meet your travel companions.
Day 2 Bangkok
Enjoy a one-hour long tail boat tour of Bangkok's famous klongs, or canals. A guided visit through Wat Po will introduce you to the Thai and Buddhist culture. There will still be time for some afternoon shopping or a visit to Grand Palace and Wat Phra Keow before heading to the train station to board our overnight train to Chiang Mai (approx. 13 hours).
Day 3 Chiang Mai
Surrounded by rolling hills, Chiang Mai offers both pretty surroundings and architecture. Enclosed by a moat and crumbling walls, the old city features great cafes, shops and accommodations. An important Buddhist centre since the 14th century, Chiang Mai is home to more than 300 temples. Many visitors come here to attend cooking courses, massage classes or yoga lessons. It is also a centre of handicraft production, with a long history of silverwork, woodcarving, pottery-making and weaving. A trip out to the countryside is another option for those interested in riding elephants or cruising down a stream on a bamboo raft. Not to be missed is the Night Bazaar, a series of covered markets, shops and stalls that offer the best selection of handicrafts in Thailand.
We arrive in the early morning and have free time to explore for the rest of the day. Your leader can help organize any activities that you would like to do.
Late afternoon we set off to visit the famous temple complex of Doi Suthep about a 45 minute drive from the center of the city. If we are lucky we can witness the resident monks perform their evening chants.
Day 4 Chiang Kong
A 5 hour bus drive takes us to Chiang Khong and our guesthouse that overlooks the Mekong river. Wander the local food market or sit back and enjoy the slow pace of life as we spend our last evening in Thailand.
Day 5 Mekong River
Travel through Thai Immigration, which is only a few hundred meters away from our Guesthouse. We then cross the Mekong by boat to Ban Houaysai and the Lao Immigration. Begin your journey down the Mekong by slow boat, stopping overnight in a basic Guesthouse in Pakbeng. Please note that Pakbeng only has electricity from 6pm to 10pm and 6am to 10am. Also note that from Nov-Mar it can get cold in this part of Laos so bring something to keep you warm,especially at night.
Day 6-8 Luang Prabang
Located at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong Rivers, Luang Prabang is without a doubt the most charming city in Laos.
On day 6, we will approach Luang Prabang in the late afternoon. We will make a stop outside of town at the Pak Ou caves. This dramatic cave houses thousands of Buddha statues and images and is considered an important spiritual sight by many Lao people. Overlooking the Mekong, the cave provides stunning views. After our visit, re-board the boat and continue to Luang Prabang, arriving around 5pm.
Discover Laos Buddhist and architectural heritage either on foot or by bicycle.Tour around the most impressive of Luang Prabang’s 32 temples including Vat Vixoun, Vat Sene, and Vat Xiengthong. Eat a picnic on Phousi Hill and watch the sun set over the horizon or rise at dawn to watch the monks walk through the city collecting offerings of food from the locals. Make sure to find the time to browse the many textile galleries and relax in the town’s many small cafés.
During our stay, we take a guided visit of the Royal Palace and a half-day trip out to the stunning Kuang Sii waterfalls.
Day 9-10 Vang Vieng
A scenic drive through winding mountains will take us to the picturesque town of Vang Vieng (approx 7 hrs). Nestled along the Nam Song river and surrounded by limestone karsts, Vang Vieng is a great place to explore the countryside by bicycle or just float down the river in a tire tube.
Day 11 Vientiane
A 3 hour drive takes us to one of Asia's sleepiest capital cities. Enjoy the highlights of Vientiane including Wat Sisaket (one of the city's oldest and most fascinating temples), That Luang (Lao's national symbol and one of its most sacred sites), and the Morning Market (an all-day affair selling virtually everything).
Day 12-13 Hanoi
A flight on day 12 takes us away from quiet Laos and in to the bustling city of Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam. A leisurely walk through the Old Quarter and a traditional Vietnamese meal are the perfect way to start your visit to this diverse country.
On day 13 we visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and his Presidential Palace and House on Stilts. The Mausoleum houses the remains of Ho Chi Minh, the founding father of unified Vietnam (note: the mausoleum and museum are closed October-December). During the afternoon visit Tran Quoc Pagoda, the Temple of Literature, the Museum of Ethnology or take a walk through Hanoi's Old Quarter – a virtual maze of facinating streets, each one traditionally devoted to a different product or industry. Late afternoon or early evening we attend a performance at the famous Water Puppet Theatre.
Day 14-15 Halong Bay
On day 14, a 3 hour drive takes us to Bai Chay Harbour, the entrance of Halong Bay.
Thousands of islands rise dramatically from the waters of Halong Bay, the limestone karst formations are hollowed by intricate caves – aboard your sailing junk visit some of the islands and caves, perhaps a pre-dinner swim and a very peaceful night beneath the stars. In the morning continue the cruise past Man's Head Island and visit Luon cave by small bamboo boat. After an early lunch on board the boat, head back to Hanoi with time for shopping or further sightseeing until our overnight train to Hue.
Day 16 Hue
Arrive early on day 16 into Hue, once the imperial capital. A true highlight of Hue is the surrounding countryside. We can visit Tien Mu Pagoda and continue on to the tomb of one of the Nguyen Emperors.
Day 17-19 Hoi An
In the morning we head on our guided tour of the old Citadel.The Citadel contains the Forbidden Purple City, modeled on the Forbidden City in Beijing. This was badly destroyed during the Tet Offensive in 1968 and significant restoration work has since occurred. Late morning we drive to Hoi An. Crossing over the Hai Van Pass we will also stop at Lang Co Beach. Just north of Hoi An is Danang, a major US military base during the war and site of an excellent museum documenting Cham art and history. We will arrive in Hoi An late afternoon for our 3 night stay.
The picturesque port town of Hoi An, once known as Faifo, was an important trading town with strong south Chinese influence and connections.Take yourself on a walking tour of this living museum,which includes the Museum of History and Culture, the Tan Ky house, the Japanese bridge, the Fujian Assembly Hall. And after all that have lunch at a riverside restaurant to sample some of the local delicacies. Hoi An is also a shopping mecca for tourists in the region – tailors can produce virtually anything overnight – clothing, silk lanterns, lacquer ware and other crafts abound. Cui Dai beach is only 4km from town for sun worshipers.
Day 20-21 Ho Chi Minh City
Drive to Danang for the flight to Ho Chi Minh City, the sprawling metropolis that was once the capital of South Vietnam and remains the country’s commercial center.
On the morning of Day 21 we take our guided tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels. A complexed network of tunnels 90 minutes from the city where the locals lived during the American War to keep safe.
The afternoon is free time to visit the Thien Hau and Giac Vien pagodas and stroll through the immense Ben Than Market. There is also the Reunification Palace, the residence of the presidents of South Vietnam before 1975, Cholon (literally translated: Big Market),the Chinese quarter and the War Remnants Museum.
Day 22 Mekong Delta Day Trip
Travel by bus down to the start of the Mekong Delta, where the mighty Mekong River approaches and empties in to the sea. Board a boat and navigate through the small canals, witnessing local lifestyle and the cottage industries of this fertile area. After a day of touring, return to Ho Chi Minh City in time for dinner.
Day 23-24 Phnom Penh
On the day of 23, we cross in to Cambodia by public bus.The drive to the border takes about 2-3 hours. After processing all the formalities, we continue on by bus to Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital arriving mid-afternoon.
After years of civil strife and political turmoil Cambodia is open for visitors. Late afternoon we take a short Cyclo ride around the city.
With our local guide on day 24, we witness the dark side of Cambodian history with visits to Choeng Ek, the site of the infamous Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng prison, the notorious Khmer Rouge prison where thousands of Cambodians perished.
Afterwards, continue sight seeing on your own.You can explore the cities many sights: the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, and the National Museum.There is time to visit the huge Russian Market packed with souvenirs and all the necessities of daily life. Late afternoon is a great time to visit Wat Phnom where the sanctuary for which the city is named once stood. It is a Buddhist shrine, although a Taoist goddess and numerous monkeys also reside here, and one of the pleasure spots for residents of the city. A drink in one of the many riverside café’s watching the sunset is a fitting finale to the day.
Day 25-27 Siem Reap/Angkor Wat
A short flight across the Tonle Sap, the largest lake in Southeast Asia brings us to Siem Reap. After checking into our hotel we set out for a first visit of Southeast Asia's most famous archeological sight, the temples of Angkor. The 100 or so temples are the sacred remains of what was once a much larger administrative and religious centre built between the 9th and 13th centuries to glorify a succession of Khmer kings. Most of Angkor was abandoned in the 15th century and the temples were gradually cloaked by forest until they were rediscovered by French archeologists.
Next day start with an early departure for a full day temple tour including Angkor Wat for Sunrise,Angkor Thom, the Bayon, the Gate of Angkor Thom, Baphuon, the Terrace of the Leper King and the Terrace of the Elephants amongst others. We also visit the temple in the jungle, Ta Phrom,also know as the 'Tomb Raider' temple.
Day 27 is a free day. Options include a bicycle trip to villages and temples outside Siem Reap, a last visit to Angkor or a short trek to Kbal Spean, the ‘river of 1000 lingas’.
Day 28-29 Bangkok
A long day's bus ride takes us from the countryside of Cambodia to the modern Kingdom of Thailand. Please note that the road on the Cambodian side is mostly unsealed and very bumpy (Approx 5 hrs), the border crossing formalities can take up to two hours as well. Yet, once we reach the Thai side, the roads are smooth for our remaining drive to Bangkok (3-4 hrs). Please note that road conditions in Cambodia can deteriorate very quickly during the rainy season. We have noted approximate driving times in the itinerary above but please be prepared for possible delays. In extreme circumstances the road is impassable and we will have to fly to Bangkok.We have time to check-in to our centrally located hotel and then its our final night meal and time to take in the local nightlife. Departure is after breakfast on day 29, when our tour ends.
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