The Itinerary: Third Leg - Bangkok to Bali

Sawadee from Thailand! Today is actually my last day in Thailand; tomorrow I head to Malaysia and then on to Singapore and Indonesia. I'm a bit behind on my blog, but I hope to catch up in Penang.

Also, Happy Birthday to the one and only Summer Huff, who's also somewhere in Thailand at the moment -- have a great birthday! I love you!

Here's my itinerary for the third and final leg of my trip, from Bangkok all the way down the Malay peninsula and across Java and Bali.

Leg 3: Bangkok to Bali in 30 Days [5/30/09 – 6/28/09]

Days 1-2 Bangkok

Sa-wat dee! Welcome to Thailand. On day 2 we leave the hustle and bustle of Bangkok behind, taking an overnight train south to Surat Thani (approx. 12 hours).

Tonight we overnight on a fan cooled train, sleeping in bunks with shared facilities.

Days 3-4 Khao Sok National Park

On arrival in Surat Thani, we have breakfast in a small coffee shop before jumping on a songthaew headed west (approx. 1.5 hours). At Khao Sok, we find some of the best remaining rainforest in Thailand, reputedly older than that of the Amazon Basin!

In your free time, there are options to take an elephant ride or to head out on foot to explore the many forest walking trails, rivers and waterfalls. Be sure to bring good walking shoes with grip and be prepared to sweat.

Our guesthouse sits by a clear stream at the edge of tropical jungle with our accommodation consisting of basic but comfortable bungalows with local-style bathrooms. Sleeping in these small rustic bungalows surrounded by the sounds of the jungle is an evocative experience.

Days 5-7 Krabi

We travel by public bus and songthaew to Krabi Province on the beautiful west coast (2-3 hours). Fringed by sun-bronzed beaches and limestone scenery, this was the region that put Thailand on the map as one of the world's most beautiful destinations.

Weather permitting, you can take a boat out to nearby islands and snorkel spectacular reefs teeming with tropical fish. Your leader will fill you in on all the other interesting options available in the area, such as sea kayaking and rock climbing - so get out there and make the most of your time. This is the perfect place to get active or simply relax!

Our guesthouse is close to the beach and provides a perfect spot to mellow out and relax.

Days 8-9 Penang, Malaysia

Today is quite a long travel day (approx. 10 hours), as we say goodbye to southern Thailand and hello to the cultural melting pot of Malaysia.

We arrive in Penang on the evening of day 8. The original Chinese atmosphere of the island still exists today, making it a fascinating place to explore.

On the morning of day 9 your leader can take you on a stroll down the Street of Harmony, get amongst the morning traders at the bustling Chinese market. Take this opportunity to have your fortune told by a traditional Chinese fortune teller, or visit a Chinese herbalist to see how they make up traditional medicines. Alternatively, try some freshly prepared local snacks - there's so much to see and do here!

At night, don't miss the local food stalls that set up along many of Penang's streets. This island is famous for its food, thanks to the many cultures that have lived side by side here for centuries. Be sure to try a refreshing ice kacang (a dessert made with crushed ice, syrup and a mixture of jellies, nuts and sweet beans), or a hearty nasi kandar (a dish of steamed rice accompanied by curries, fried chicken, seafood or vegetables).

Check out Kek Lok Sii Temple (the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia), Khoo Kongsi (amazingly ornate and one of the oldest clan houses in Malaysia), Cheong Fat Tze Museum (fascinating if you have an interest in Feng Shui). If you want more of the beach or want a unique Penang experience, grab a taxi over to Batu Ferringhi or take the unspoilt trails of Malaysia's smallest national park at Teluk Bahang.

Our accommodation for these two nights is located in the heart of historic Georgetown. Twin share with private facilities, our hotel is basic and a great base for exploring the temples, mosques and museums of Penang.

Days 10-11 Kuala Lumpur

The bus trip to Malaysia's capital, Kuala Lumpur, takes approximately 5 hours. On arrival, we have time to view the impressive architecture and experience the fascinating cultural mix that gives this city such a uniquely cosmopolitan feel.

On the afternoon of day 10 your leader will take you on an orientation walk of the local area surrounding our hotel - pointing out how and where to catch public transport and where to head for the best KL has to offer - food, temples, major sites, museums and of course, shopping!

Day 11 is a free day. Grab a map and explore the many walkable areas in KL: Bukit Bintang, the Golden Triangle with the latest shopping and just a short stroll to Menara Tower (entry fee applies). You might like to head out of town to visit the famous Batu Caves or the head over to the Lakes Gardens to visit the Islamic Arts Museum and the National Mosque before the fascinating Orang Asli Museum. Get up early to get your free tickets to the second-tallest buildings in the world. Ask your leader how the system works!

The evening is best spent at the night market sampling the different cuisines on offer and bargain hunting among the stalls of the famous Petaling Street Chinatown Night Markets.

In Kuala Lumpur we stay amongst the night markets and hawker stalls of the famous Petaling Street in Chinatown. Our hotel is twin share with private facilities.

Days 12-13 Port Dickson

This morning we head off to Port Dickson, Peninsula Malaysia's beach playground. A short (approx. 2 hour) local bus ride to the beach we then transfer via taxi to our action packed accommodation. Here you have all the free time you need to indulge in optional activities such as tennis, canoeing or simply reclining in the Jacuzzi. Take a stroll around the beaches on the Melaka Straits and meet locals, or relax by the pool and spa. Sweat it out on the trails around the environmentally important Tanjung Tuan Lighthouse followed by a dip in the Blue Lagoon.

Our unique accommodation is equipped with twin beds, colour TV and is situated next to Tanjung Tuan wild life sanctuary with a vast array of optional activities to suit every budget.

Day 14 Melaka

Enjoy breakfast by the pool before we head back to the city of Seremban to transfer to the bus to Melaka (approx. 1 hour), a journey that takes us to the old port town of Melaka where we can wander the narrow streets and absorb the atmosphere of this historically important town.

With the beginning of trade with China in the early 15th century, Melaka rapidly became the most important trading port in South-East Asia. Chinese traders were followed by those from India. With them came Islam and soon the Melaka sultans ruled the largest empire in Malaysia's history. Successively the Portuguese, Dutch and British arrived in search of trading wealth. All these traders left their mark on the town, and although the effects of recent economic growth are apparent, the town still retains its old-world charm. The streets of Chinatown are lined with Peranakan (Straits Chinese) shophouses offering their traditional cuisine, Nyonya, and there are temples, churches, mosques, museums and forts to explore. It may also be possible to view Melaka from the water by boarding a river boat cruise. This is dependent on river tide levels.

Tonight we stay in traditional Melaka-Chinese style guesthouse. This charming house has shared facilities with cold water showers and basic twin share sleeping.

Day 15 Singapore

Today we travel by local bus (approx. 5 hours) to Lavender Street Bus station. Singapore has only a few areas untouched by modernisation but wandering the streets of Little India and Chinatown is a great way to see the old parts of the city. Our hotel is located in the Bugis Street area with its many shopping centres and places to eat! Only 2 minutes' walk from the Little India MRT, it is only a short underground train ride to the major shopping complexes of Orchard Road or Chinatown.

Today we say goodbye to those travellers leaving the journey here in Singapore.

In Singapore we stay in a renovated Peranakan style boutique hotel with twin share bedding and private facilities.

Day 16 Jakarta, Indonesia

On day 16 you fly over to Jakarta for the second half of the trip (Flight not included - see Important Notes for further details). Depending on your flight time, you will have extra time in either Singapore or Jakarta for sightseeing. There is lots to do in both cities so you can be sure a longer stay is worthwhile. The hotel reception can arrange taxis to the airport in Singapore - expect to pay US$10 for this transfer and about IDR200,000 for a taxi from the airport to our hotel in Jakarta.

The structure of the group may change today, and you will have a new leader as we commence the second half of our journey, bound for Bali. You will have a group meeting at 18:00 tonight where you will meet your new leader to discuss the next leg of your journey.

Please note that your leader will collect the second part of your local payment (US$300) today.

If you choose extra time in Jakarta, the old port of Batavia with its traditional sailing schooners is well worth a visit, as is Taman Mini, an Indonesian mini-village, the National Museum and the Great Mosque.

Jakarta is a bustling city and our guesthouse is located in the shopping district with plenty of restaurants close by. Check at hotel reception for information and ideas on what to do.

Days 17-19 Pangandaran

After breakfast, it's straight into a full day's journey by train and bus (approx. 10-13 hours). It's a long day of travel but we pass deep gorges and lush green rice-terraced hills, so the scenery makes it all worthwhile.

We have two full days in Pangandaran and for half a day we trek through the superb coastal reserve with an experienced local guide, who seeks out porcupines, deer and monkeys for us to see. The walk is steep in parts but not difficult overall.

During your free time here, you may consider hiring a bike and riding into the countryside to experience rural Indonesian life, or taking a car to the beautiful Green Canyon. In the evening, don't miss sunset on the west beach, with hundreds of flying foxes heading out for an evening of gorging on the nearby fruit trees.

Our lovely hotel in Pangandaran with twin share rooms is located on East Beach and has ensuite bathrooms, air-conditioning, a restaurant, lovely garden and a swimming pool.

Days 20-22 Yogyakarta

Leaving the sea behind for a while, we head inland to Yogyakarta - one of our favourite towns in Asia. The trip takes approximately 9 hours in total. Yogyakarta or Yogya ('Jogja') is the cultural centre of Java and a great place to base ourselves for a few days.

On our first morning (day 21) you have the option to venture out on bicycle rickshaws (becak) to explore the Sultan's Palace, markets and the batik workshops of Yogya. There is also time to visit the impressive Hindu temple complex, Prambanan, which encompasses 224 ruined temples which are currently undergoing painstaking restoration. Yogya is also the place to see beautiful traditional Javanese dancing in the evening or to discover the art of puppet-making.

On the morning of day 22 perhaps head out of town for a day trip to 8th-century Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world (approx. 1 hour from Yogya). In the afternoon, you can meander through the markets in Malioboro Street.

Our basic guesthouse in Yogyakarta with twin share rooms is located close to town and the Kraton (Sultans Palace) and has ensuite bathrooms.

Day 23 Seloliman Nature Reserve

The peaceful Seloliman Nature Reserve is situated on the slopes of the sacred Penanggungan volcano - a welcome treat after another long stint of travelling (approx. 7-8 hours by bus).

While here, we meet volunteers who are working at the PPLH Seloliman Environmental Education Centre and eat delicious food cooked by their staff. The Centre's accommodation is atmospheric, with open-air bathrooms built in harmony with the surrounding forest, so take this opportunity to relax. This is also a beautiful spot to appreciate nature - be sure to sit outside at night under the stars to take in the peaceful surrounding mountain scenery.

This Centre's accommodation is atmospheric, located in a small village with views of the jungle and surrounding mountains. Triple share bungalows have basic facilities with ensuite open-air bathrooms, cold showers only, built in harmony with the surrounding forest. All our meals from locally grown organic produce are included here at their restaurant.

Day 24 Mt Bromo

PPLH staff take us on a morning walk around the Seloliman Nature Reserve, teaching us about the local environment and the Javanese tradition of herbal medicine. The walk is not difficult (approx. 2.5 hours), but can be muddy and slippery, so good shoes are necessary - trekking sandals are best because of the wet.

Afterwards, we journey on (approx. 3 hours) to the timeless homeland of the Tenggerese where we stay in simple lodgings for the night. Here, we get a glimpse of the natural wonder we will explore in the morning: steeply cultivated hills giving rise to the amazing Tengger Valley. There may be time for a walk around the village in the afternoon but by night-time there's not much to do here, so head to bed early in preparation for an early start tomorrow.

Our basic guesthouse at Mt Bromo with twin share rooms is located a short jeep ride from the volcano and has basic facilities only with shared bathrooms with cold water, and squat toilets. It also has a restaurant and bar. All meals here are included.

Days 25-26 Lovina

An early rise is necessary (3:30am) to ensure enough time to cross the 'sea of sand' and climb the cone of Mt Bromo. The climb is not too difficult (approx. 45 minutes), but it can be very cold so don't forget to bring extra layers of clothing. Sunrise over this eerie sea of volcanoes is an unforgettable experience.

After breakfast, we continue our journey by bus, train and ferry to the tranquil north coast of Bali. This is a long and tiring day (approx. 8-10 hours), but the change of scene from Java to Bali is remarkable. Crossing the Java Strait by ferry takes about 1 hour.

A full day in Lovina provides plenty of opportunity to experience the island's exotic marine life. Your options include a dawn trip by outrigger boat to watch the dolphins come into the bay followed by snorkelling on the reef. For experienced divers there is also the option of taking a dive. For those who have never dived before, there is a beginner's dive available to introduce you to the wonders of scuba. There is time as well to visit the nearby hot springs and Buddhist monastery or you may wish to drive into the nearby hills.

In the evening, we may be lucky enough to partake in a Balinese banquet at the home of our local friend Ibu Wayan, who lives on the beach in a small village.

Our clean hotel in Lovina with twin share rooms is centrally located near the beach and has ensuite bathrooms with cold showers only, a restaurant and a swimming pool.

Day 27 Tirta Gangga

We travel eastwards along the coast, skirting Mt Agung, to the village of Tirta Gangga (approx. 2 hours). Along the way, we pass through an incredible landscape that is almost lunar in appearance, in stark contrast to the lush, green rice terraces of Tirta Gangga. In this small rural village, we have free time to relax and enjoy the view from our guesthouse balcony or swim in the Rajah's Water Palace, where the pools are fed by natural underground springs.

Our basic guesthouse at Tirtagangga with twin share rooms has sweeping views of surrounding rice terraces, a short walk to the Water Palace. It has ensuite bathrooms with cold showers only and a small restaurant.

Days 28-30 Ubud

With a local guide, we enjoy an early morning walk through some of the most spectacular rice terraces in Bali (approx. 3 hours), visiting local temples, a silver-smithing centre and other local cottage industries. On our walk, we follow village roads and rice field tracks.

Afterwards, it's off again for another scenic drive (approx. 2 hours) to Ubud. Ubud is a wonderful place to experience the magic that has made Bali such a popular travel destination. You have free time here to visit the numerous art galleries, interesting museums and the monkey forest as well as to do some last-minute shopping.

Later, we go on an afternoon walk or bike ride, depending on group preference, to some surrounding villages. We then view a traditional kecak dance where performers are whipped up into a trance-like frenzy, concluding with a firewalking demonstration - a highlight for many of our travellers. This evening, enjoy a final farewell dinner at one of Ubud's many fine restaurants.

The Itinerary: Second Leg - Indochina Loop

Sawadee! I'm a bit behind on the blog, but I wanted to let everyone know that I made it to Thailand safely from Nepal (which narrowly avoided a government coup the day before I left). I met up with my second group a couple of days ago and I'm currently in Chiang Mai, Thailand's second city, located in the mountains in the north. Tomorrow we head further north to the Laos border.

I haven't seen any signs of further civil unrest here; on the contrary, Thailand is immaculate and thoroughly modernized, especially when compared with some of what I saw in India and Nepal! I actually barely recognize the place I visited seven years ago back in college. Everything seems brand new here, in both good and bad ways (too many 7-11s and Starbucks and McDonalds for my taste, even if Ronald McDonald does 'wai' you on the way in).


I've included my itinerary for the next month below. I'll be traveling through Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia before heading back to Bangkok. I'm looking forward to sharing more adventures here, so stay tuned!

Leg 2: The Great Indochina Loop (Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia) in 29 days [4/27/09 – 5/25/09]

Day 1 Arrive Bangkok

Arrive in Bangkok at any time. Your Tour Leader would have put up a Welcome Note and will arrange a meeting,normally for 6pm. Time to find out all about your trip and meet your travel companions.

Day 2 Bangkok

Enjoy a one-hour long tail boat tour of Bangkok's famous klongs, or canals. A guided visit through Wat Po will introduce you to the Thai and Buddhist culture. There will still be time for some afternoon shopping or a visit to Grand Palace and Wat Phra Keow before heading to the train station to board our overnight train to Chiang Mai (approx. 13 hours).

Day 3 Chiang Mai

Surrounded by rolling hills, Chiang Mai offers both pretty surroundings and architecture. Enclosed by a moat and crumbling walls, the old city features great cafes, shops and accommodations. An important Buddhist centre since the 14th century, Chiang Mai is home to more than 300 temples. Many visitors come here to attend cooking courses, massage classes or yoga lessons. It is also a centre of handicraft production, with a long history of silverwork, woodcarving, pottery-making and weaving. A trip out to the countryside is another option for those interested in riding elephants or cruising down a stream on a bamboo raft. Not to be missed is the Night Bazaar, a series of covered markets, shops and stalls that offer the best selection of handicrafts in Thailand.

We arrive in the early morning and have free time to explore for the rest of the day. Your leader can help organize any activities that you would like to do.

Late afternoon we set off to visit the famous temple complex of Doi Suthep about a 45 minute drive from the center of the city. If we are lucky we can witness the resident monks perform their evening chants.

Day 4 Chiang Kong

A 5 hour bus drive takes us to Chiang Khong and our guesthouse that overlooks the Mekong river. Wander the local food market or sit back and enjoy the slow pace of life as we spend our last evening in Thailand.

Day 5 Mekong River

Travel through Thai Immigration, which is only a few hundred meters away from our Guesthouse. We then cross the Mekong by boat to Ban Houaysai and the Lao Immigration. Begin your journey down the Mekong by slow boat, stopping overnight in a basic Guesthouse in Pakbeng. Please note that Pakbeng only has electricity from 6pm to 10pm and 6am to 10am. Also note that from Nov-Mar it can get cold in this part of Laos so bring something to keep you warm,especially at night.

Day 6-8 Luang Prabang

Located at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong Rivers, Luang Prabang is without a doubt the most charming city in Laos.

On day 6, we will approach Luang Prabang in the late afternoon. We will make a stop outside of town at the Pak Ou caves. This dramatic cave houses thousands of Buddha statues and images and is considered an important spiritual sight by many Lao people. Overlooking the Mekong, the cave provides stunning views. After our visit, re-board the boat and continue to Luang Prabang, arriving around 5pm.

Discover Laos Buddhist and architectural heritage either on foot or by bicycle.Tour around the most impressive of Luang Prabang’s 32 temples including Vat Vixoun, Vat Sene, and Vat Xiengthong. Eat a picnic on Phousi Hill and watch the sun set over the horizon or rise at dawn to watch the monks walk through the city collecting offerings of food from the locals. Make sure to find the time to browse the many textile galleries and relax in the town’s many small cafés.
During our stay, we take a guided visit of the Royal Palace and a half-day trip out to the stunning Kuang Sii waterfalls.

Day 9-10 Vang Vieng

A scenic drive through winding mountains will take us to the picturesque town of Vang Vieng (approx 7 hrs). Nestled along the Nam Song river and surrounded by limestone karsts, Vang Vieng is a great place to explore the countryside by bicycle or just float down the river in a tire tube.

Day 11 Vientiane

A 3 hour drive takes us to one of Asia's sleepiest capital cities. Enjoy the highlights of Vientiane including Wat Sisaket (one of the city's oldest and most fascinating temples), That Luang (Lao's national symbol and one of its most sacred sites), and the Morning Market (an all-day affair selling virtually everything).

Day 12-13 Hanoi

A flight on day 12 takes us away from quiet Laos and in to the bustling city of Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam. A leisurely walk through the Old Quarter and a traditional Vietnamese meal are the perfect way to start your visit to this diverse country.

On day 13 we visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and his Presidential Palace and House on Stilts. The Mausoleum houses the remains of Ho Chi Minh, the founding father of unified Vietnam (note: the mausoleum and museum are closed October-December). During the afternoon visit Tran Quoc Pagoda, the Temple of Literature, the Museum of Ethnology or take a walk through Hanoi's Old Quarter – a virtual maze of facinating streets, each one traditionally devoted to a different product or industry. Late afternoon or early evening we attend a performance at the famous Water Puppet Theatre.

Day 14-15 Halong Bay

On day 14, a 3 hour drive takes us to Bai Chay Harbour, the entrance of Halong Bay.
Thousands of islands rise dramatically from the waters of Halong Bay, the limestone karst formations are hollowed by intricate caves – aboard your sailing junk visit some of the islands and caves, perhaps a pre-dinner swim and a very peaceful night beneath the stars. In the morning continue the cruise past Man's Head Island and visit Luon cave by small bamboo boat. After an early lunch on board the boat, head back to Hanoi with time for shopping or further sightseeing until our overnight train to Hue.

Day 16 Hue

Arrive early on day 16 into Hue, once the imperial capital. A true highlight of Hue is the surrounding countryside. We can visit Tien Mu Pagoda and continue on to the tomb of one of the Nguyen Emperors.

Day 17-19 Hoi An

In the morning we head on our guided tour of the old Citadel.The Citadel contains the Forbidden Purple City, modeled on the Forbidden City in Beijing. This was badly destroyed during the Tet Offensive in 1968 and significant restoration work has since occurred. Late morning we drive to Hoi An. Crossing over the Hai Van Pass we will also stop at Lang Co Beach. Just north of Hoi An is Danang, a major US military base during the war and site of an excellent museum documenting Cham art and history. We will arrive in Hoi An late afternoon for our 3 night stay.

The picturesque port town of Hoi An, once known as Faifo, was an important trading town with strong south Chinese influence and connections.Take yourself on a walking tour of this living museum,which includes the Museum of History and Culture, the Tan Ky house, the Japanese bridge, the Fujian Assembly Hall. And after all that have lunch at a riverside restaurant to sample some of the local delicacies. Hoi An is also a shopping mecca for tourists in the region – tailors can produce virtually anything overnight – clothing, silk lanterns, lacquer ware and other crafts abound. Cui Dai beach is only 4km from town for sun worshipers.

Day 20-21 Ho Chi Minh City

Drive to Danang for the flight to Ho Chi Minh City, the sprawling metropolis that was once the capital of South Vietnam and remains the country’s commercial center.

On the morning of Day 21 we take our guided tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels. A complexed network of tunnels 90 minutes from the city where the locals lived during the American War to keep safe.

The afternoon is free time to visit the Thien Hau and Giac Vien pagodas and stroll through the immense Ben Than Market. There is also the Reunification Palace, the residence of the presidents of South Vietnam before 1975, Cholon (literally translated: Big Market),the Chinese quarter and the War Remnants Museum.

Day 22 Mekong Delta Day Trip

Travel by bus down to the start of the Mekong Delta, where the mighty Mekong River approaches and empties in to the sea. Board a boat and navigate through the small canals, witnessing local lifestyle and the cottage industries of this fertile area. After a day of touring, return to Ho Chi Minh City in time for dinner.

Day 23-24 Phnom Penh

On the day of 23, we cross in to Cambodia by public bus.The drive to the border takes about 2-3 hours. After processing all the formalities, we continue on by bus to Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital arriving mid-afternoon.

After years of civil strife and political turmoil Cambodia is open for visitors. Late afternoon we take a short Cyclo ride around the city.

With our local guide on day 24, we witness the dark side of Cambodian history with visits to Choeng Ek, the site of the infamous Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng prison, the notorious Khmer Rouge prison where thousands of Cambodians perished.

Afterwards, continue sight seeing on your own.You can explore the cities many sights: the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, and the National Museum.There is time to visit the huge Russian Market packed with souvenirs and all the necessities of daily life. Late afternoon is a great time to visit Wat Phnom where the sanctuary for which the city is named once stood. It is a Buddhist shrine, although a Taoist goddess and numerous monkeys also reside here, and one of the pleasure spots for residents of the city. A drink in one of the many riverside café’s watching the sunset is a fitting finale to the day.

Day 25-27 Siem Reap/Angkor Wat

A short flight across the Tonle Sap, the largest lake in Southeast Asia brings us to Siem Reap. After checking into our hotel we set out for a first visit of Southeast Asia's most famous archeological sight, the temples of Angkor. The 100 or so temples are the sacred remains of what was once a much larger administrative and religious centre built between the 9th and 13th centuries to glorify a succession of Khmer kings. Most of Angkor was abandoned in the 15th century and the temples were gradually cloaked by forest until they were rediscovered by French archeologists.

Next day start with an early departure for a full day temple tour including Angkor Wat for Sunrise,Angkor Thom, the Bayon, the Gate of Angkor Thom, Baphuon, the Terrace of the Leper King and the Terrace of the Elephants amongst others. We also visit the temple in the jungle, Ta Phrom,also know as the 'Tomb Raider' temple.

Day 27 is a free day. Options include a bicycle trip to villages and temples outside Siem Reap, a last visit to Angkor or a short trek to Kbal Spean, the ‘river of 1000 lingas’.

Day 28-29 Bangkok

A long day's bus ride takes us from the countryside of Cambodia to the modern Kingdom of Thailand. Please note that the road on the Cambodian side is mostly unsealed and very bumpy (Approx 5 hrs), the border crossing formalities can take up to two hours as well. Yet, once we reach the Thai side, the roads are smooth for our remaining drive to Bangkok (3-4 hrs). Please note that road conditions in Cambodia can deteriorate very quickly during the rainy season. We have noted approximate driving times in the itinerary above but please be prepared for possible delays. In extreme circumstances the road is impassable and we will have to fly to Bangkok.

We have time to check-in to our centrally located hotel and then its our final night meal and time to take in the local nightlife. Departure is after breakfast on day 29, when our tour ends.

The Itinerary: First Leg - Delhi to Kathmandu

Here's a more specific description of the route I'll be taking through Northern India and Nepal. I'll be arriving in Delhi a few days beforehand to recover from the 24-hour journey to get there, adjust to the time difference, and explore the city a bit. After this first leg ends, I plan to travel independently in the Kathmandu Valley to take in Newari villages and views of the Himalayas before continuing on to Bangkok.

Delhi - Kathmandu, 4/4/09 - 4/18/09

Day 1 Delhi
New Delhi, the capital of India is one of the most historic capitals in the world and three of its monuments- the Qutab Minar, Red Fort and Humayun's Tomb - have been declared World Heritage Sites. It offers a multitude of interesting places and attractions to the visitor, so much so that it becomes difficult to decide from where to begin exploring the city. In Old Delhi, there are attractions like mosques, forts, markets and other monuments depicting India's Muslim history. New Delhi, on the other hand, is a modern city designed by Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker. Tree covered wide streets with many roundabouts are notable in New Delhi. Home to many government buildings and embassies, as well as Rashtrapati Bhawan, the one-time imperial residence of the British viceroys; India Gate, a memorial raised in honor of the Indian soldiers martyred during the Afghan war. Further out in the southern suburbs you will discover more history including Humayun's Tomb, said to be the forerunner of the Taj Mahal at Agra; the Purana Quila, built by Humayun, with later-day modifications by Sher Shah Suri; Qutab Minar, built by Qutb-ud-din Aybak of the Slave Dynasty; and the incredible lotus-shaped Bahá'í House of Worship.

There are a number of outstanding museums worth visiting including the Craft Museum, National Gallery and Birla House (Ghandi Smirti) and Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum.

Day 2-3 Jaipur
Leaving the chaos of the capital New Delhi, we board our early morning Shatabdi train, considered India's fastest and most prestigious train for our journey to Jaipur, known as the Pink City (approx 4-5 hrs). Jaipur was first painted terracotta pink by Maharajah Sawai Ram Singh in 1853, to celebrate the visit of Prince Albert.

During our stay in Jaipur we visit the Amber Fort clinging to the surrounding hills. To get to the fort we have the option of an elephant ride, jeeps or walking. We also visit the amazing City Palace with its fine collection of textiles and costumes as well as the Hawa Mahal or Palace of the Winds. This famous building is in fact only an elaborately carved facade built to enable the purdah ladies in the zenana to watch the goings-on in the street below without being seen.

There are so many things to do in Jaipur. You may want to head out to the nearby village of Sanganer to see blue pottery, hand made paper or hand block printing. Or you may want to discover more of the wisdom and history of the Mughals by wandering around the Jantar Mantar, an observatory built in the 1700's. Or you may just want to sip a cocktail in any of the luxuriously converted palaces, now operating as 5 star hotels. And of course a visit to a Bollywood film is a must and there is no better place than the spectacular Art deco film house - the Raj Mandir.

Jaipur is one of the most important centers in the world for gems and jewelery and cutting of small diamonds and also a great place to buy block printed textiles, blue pottery and hand made paper. There are many shops selling these items and some wonderful markets in the Old City selling more traditional items such as mojari, Rajasthani slippers. If buying gems or jewelery please take caution as there have been several instances of scams where fake jewellery has been passed off as real.

Day 4 Agra
Travel by early morning train (approx 5 hrs) to the Muslim city of Agra, site of India’s most famous landmark, the Taj Mahal. Visit this icon of Mughal architecture either early in the morning or late afternoon for the best light. We ride one of the ubiquitous cycle rickshaws to visit Taj Mahal and Red Fort.

The Taj Mahal was constructed between 1631 and 1654 by a workforce of 22 000, the Taj Mahal was built by the Muslim Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his favourite wife, Arjumand Bano Begum, better known as Mumtaz Mahal. Mumtaz had already borne the emperor fourteen children when she died in childbirth, and it is the romantic origin of the Taj as much as its architectural splendour that has led to its fame worldwide. Actually an integrated complex of many structures, the Taj Mahal is considered the finest example of Mughal architecture, itself a combination of Islamic, Hindu, Persian and Turkish elements.

The walled palatial city of the Red Fort, was first taken over by the Moghuls, at that time led by Akbar the Great, in the late 16th century. Akbar liked to build from red sandstone, often inlaid with white marble and intricate decorations, and it was during his reign that the fort began changing into more of a royal estate.

However, it was only during the reign of Akbar's grandson, Shah Jahan (who would eventually build the Taj Mahal) that the site finally took on its current state. Unlike his grandfather, Shah Jahan preferred buildings made from white marble, often inlaid with gold or semi-precious gems, and he destroyed some earlier buildings inside the fort in order to build others in his own style. At the end of his life Shah Jahan was imprisoned in the fort by his son, Aurangzeb. It is said that Shah Jahan died in Muasamman Burj, a tower with a marble balcony with an excellent view of the Taj Mahal.

The fort was also a site of one of the most important battles of the Indian rebellion of 1857, which caused the end of the British East India Company's rule in India, leading to a century of direct rule of India by Britain.

Time permitting, visit I’timad-ud-Daulah, also known as the ‘Baby Taj’ - it was built before the Taj Mahal by Nur Jahan, queen of Jehangir, for her parents and was the first Mughal building to be faced with white marble and where ‘pietra dura’, (precious stones inlaid into marble) was first used.


Day 5-6 Orchha
Today we travel by train from Agra to Jhansi before jumping in a tempo, a large type of auto rickshaw to the picturesque town of Orchha (approx 4 hrs). We spend two days enjoying the peaceful rural charm of this riverside town. Sitting on the banks of the Betwa River, Orchha is the perfect antidote to the chaos of India’s cities. Experience a piece of the ‘real’ India, one that will likely change your image of this diverse country.

A typical, small Indian town, Orchha owes its popularity to an architectural heritage bequeathed it, by its history as the oldest and highest in rank of all the Bundela states. Orchha dates back to the 16th century when it was founded by the Bundela chief Rudra Pratap. In the early 17th century, Raja Jujhar Singh rebelled against the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, whose armies devastated the state and occupied Orchha from 1635 to 1641. Orchha was the only Bundela state not subjugated by the Marathas in the 18th century. Hamir Singh, who ruled from 1848 to 1874, was elevated to Maharaja in 1865. Maharaja Pratap Singh (born 1854, died 1930), who succeeded to the throne in 1874, devoted himself entirely to the development of his state, himself designing most of the engineering and irrigation works executed during his reign.

In 1901, the state had an area of over 2000 sq. mi, and population of over 300 000, warranted a 15-gun salute, and its Maharajas bore the hereditary title of First of the Princes of Bundelkhand, all hard to believe as you wander the sleepy town as it appears today. Eventually, Vir Singh, Pratap Singh's successor, merged his state with the Union of India on January 1, 1950.

With our local guide, we explore some of the many temples and palaces spread along the river and surrounding countryside, including the town’s imposing 17th century fort, Chaturbhuj temple built on a vast platform of stone, and the numerous cenotaphs that dot the landscape. Remember to make time for the evening puja ceremony between 7pm and 8pm - at the Ram Raja Temple.

We also visit Tarragram, a unique paper making plant, set up to assist tribal women from the area. All the paper is made from recycled clothing and wood pulp.

Then you will have free time to hire a bicycle and head out into the countryside, a great opportunity to meet some locals. Or simply relax and stroll along the banks of the river.

On the evening of Day 6 we return to Jhansi and take the overnight train to Varanasi (approx 13 hrs).

Day 7-8 Varanasi
We arrive in the morning at Varanasi, the quintessential Indian holy city where millions of Hindu travel, for pilgrimage, to worship, to mourn or to die. Walk the narrow twisting alleys, poke around some of the literally hundreds of temples and shrines, and experience the energy of the dawn rituals of bathing and burnings as you float past the numerous ghats of the River Ganges.

The legends, myths and aura surrounding Varanasi led Mark Twain to famously remark. "Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together".

Sitting on the banks of the River Ganges, you can contemplate what it means to be in Varanasi, the oldest continually inhabited city in the world, dating back thousands of years. The culture of Varanasi is deeply associated with the river Ganges, its reigning deity Lord Shiva and its religious importance; the city has been a cultural and religious center in northern India for thousands of years. Or wander through the Old City with its maze of narrow alleyways full of small shops and stalls. Perhaps you could visit the monasteries and ruins of nearby Sarnath, the site of Buddha's first sermon.

During our stay we take boats out onto the sacred Ganges River, both for sunrise and sunset. For the evening boat journey we enjoy a candle flower ceremony accompanied by sitar and tabla playing.

Day 9 Bhairawa/Lumbini, India-Nepal Border
Leaving Varanasi we travel by private vehicle (approx 7 hrs) to the Nepalese border. Crossing at the border town of Bhairawa we then continue on to the great Buddhist pilgrimage center and birthplace of the Buddha, Lumbini.

Lumbini (Sanskrit for "the lovely") is the historical birthplace of Gautama Buddha, the founder of Buddhism, who lived between approximately 563 and 483 BCE. Lumbini, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is located 25kms east of the municipality of Kapilavastu, the place where the Buddha grew up and lived up to the age of 29.


Day 10-11 Chitwan National Park
Leaving Lumbini we travel to the UNESCO World Heritage Chitwan National Park (approx 4-5 hrs). Known as the Terai Tarai ("moist land"), the landscape you travel through today is a belt of marshy grasslands, savannas, and forests at the base of the Himalayas. The Terai zone is composed of alternate layers of clay and sand, with a high water table that creates many springs and wetlands; the zone is inundated yearly by the monsoon-swollen rivers of the Himalaya.

The Terai-Duar savanna and grasslands form an eco-region that stretches across the middle of the Terai belt. They are a mosaic of tall grasslands, savannas and evergreen and deciduous forests; the grasslands are among the tallest in the world, fed by silt deposited by the yearly monsoon floods. It is this eco-region that is home to the endangered Indian Rhinoceros, as well as elephants, Bengal tigers, bears, leopards and other wild animals. Much of the region has been converted to farmland, although both Royal Chitwan National Park and Royal Bardia National Park preserve significant sections of habitat, and are home to some of the greatest concentrations of rhinoceros and tiger remaining in South Asia.

Arrive Royal Chitwan National Park (RCNP), the oldest national park in Nepal. Established in 1973, it became a World Heritage Site in 1984. Within its area of 932km², the Royal Chitwan National Park is home to at least 43 species of mammals, 450 species of birds, and 45 species of amphibians and reptiles including sambars, chitals, rhesus monkeys, and langurs.

Until 1950 the Chitwan Valley was a hunting reserve for big game. Happily, today tourists come only to spot wildlife, rather than shoot it, and the park offers some of the best wildlife viewing opportunities in Asia. Along with our guides, we ride an elephant through the national park (safari is approx. 2.5 hours). We also visit the nearby elephant breeding center. There will also be free time to go on a canoe ride or to enjoy a spot of bird watching.

Day 12-13 Pokhara
Travel from the plains to the mountains by bus (approx 5 hrs). Nestled in a tranquil valley at an altitude of 827m, Pokhara is a place of natural beauty. The serenity of Phewa Lake and the magnificence of the fish-tailed summit of Machhapuchhre (6977m) rising behind it create an ambiance of peace and tranquility.

Pokhara lies on a once vibrant trade route extending between India and Tibet. To this day, mule trains can be seen camped on the outskirts of the town, bringing goods to trade from remote regions of the Himalaya. The enchanting city has several beautiful lakes and offers stunning panoramic views of Himalayan peaks - creating the ambience that has made it such a popular place to relax and enjoy the beauty of nature. Relax in a café, hire a boat and float around the lake, or shop for Nepali and Tibetan souvenirs in the endless stalls and shops.

The most stunning of Pokhara's sights is the spectacular panorama of the Annapurna range. We travel out to Sarangkot (1592m) only 5 kms north east of Pokhara for a spectacular sunrise of the surrounding mountains (weather permitting). The walk back down through farms and forest to Pokhara is wonderful and takes between 2- 2 1/2 hours.


Day 14 Kathmandu
Travelling the last leg of the trip through the wild, rugged Himalayan landscape to Nepal’s magical capital and largest city, Kathmandu. For many, simply the name alone is sufficient to conjure up images of temple pagodas, long-haired saddhus in clouds of hashish smoke and the ever-present Himalayas. Kathmandu is all this and more. Sitting in a bowl-like valley surrounded on all sides by some of the highest mountains on earth, Kathmandu has been a crossroads of cultures since hundreds of years before Christ, a tradition very much alive today.

Arrive by bus in the afternoon and we will have a short orientation walk. Highlights in Kathmandu include world-famous Durbar Square, the King’s Palace, the burning ghats at Pashupatinath and Boudhanath Stupa. But more than almost any city in the world, Kathmandu is fascinating at every turn, and some travellers prefer to just wander, seeing where chance, fate or the city may lead them.

MOUNTAIN FLIGHTS
Regular flights are conducted daily from Kathmandu towards the Himalayan Range in the North and East of Kathmandu. The flight generally takes off in the morning and lasts for one full hour. This is the quickest way to get a close look at Mt. Everest, the highest mountains in the world. Other mountains that can be viewed at close range are Nuptse (7879 M), Lhotse (8501 M), Cho Oyu (8000M), Makalu (8475 M) and Kanchenjunga (8584 M).


Day 15 Depart Kathmandu
Early in the morning we will make our last journey together to visit Swayambhunath, the monkey temple, sitting high above Kathmandu city.

Swayambhunath is the most ancient and enigmatic of all the holy shrines in Kathmandu valley. Its lofty white dome and glittering golden spire are visible for many miles. On each of the four sides of the main stupa there are a pair of big eyes. These eyes are symbolic of God's all-seeing perspective. There is no nose between the eyes but rather a representation of the number one in the Nepali alphabet, signifying that the single way to enlightenment is through the Buddhist path. Above each pair of eyes is another eye, the third eye, signifying the wisdom of looking within. No ears are shown because it is said the Buddha is not interested in hearing prayers in praise of him. To reach Swayambhunath you climb 365 steps that lead up the hill and the area surrounding the stupa is filled with temples, painted images of deities and numerous other religious objects.

An Incredible Journey

On March 31, 2009, I'll board a flight to Delhi and start an incredible 3-month adventure through 9 countries in Asia. Along the way, I'll see such sights as the Taj Mahal, Mount Everest, Angkor Wat, and Mt. Bromo. I'll visit Delhi, Kathmandu, Bangkok, Saigon, Singapore, Jakarta, and Kuala Lumpur. I'll travel through Hindu, Buddhist, and Muslim countries. I'll travel through areas beautiful, barren, rich, poor, populous, and desolate; through mountains, islands, near-desert, ocean, and rainforest. And I will literally travel around the world, flying east through New York to Delhi, and again eastbound in July from Bali to Los Angeles.

I've been wanting to take a trip like this practically forever, but especially since I first independently traveled (the euphemism in vogue for "backpacking") in Thailand in 2002 on a side trip during my study abroad program in Sydney, Australia. I couldn't wait to go back, and to explore the many countries around it. I can't imagine a better time to make this trip than now, as I make a pretty big life transition from work back to school.

I'm writing this blog so family & friends can keep track of me as I travel. I hope you'll find it interesting, amusing, or educational... even if it's just to see whether I can survive 3 months wearing one pair of pants :)

Here's the basic outline of my trip:

India -- Nepal -- Northern Thailand -- Laos -- Vietnam -- Cambodia -- Southern Thailand -- Malaysia -- Singapore -- Indonesia (Java & Bali).




Thanks for stopping by!